March 2007 Archives

"Hanami" is a Japanese word that is used to describe the viewing of the cherry blossoms in the early spring -- something that borders on an obsession here in Washington.  Despite my overall respect for Smuttynose, I was skeptical when I first tried this beer.  I've had mixed experiences with the kriekbiers, and Sam Adams converted their Cherry Wheat into a dreadfully sweet (even syrupy) mess of a beer.  And on first sample, this came across as a pale, wan beer that had very little going for it -- I was prepared to pass on it entirely.  I went back to the well a few weeks later, however, and was pleasantly surprised. 

Characteristics: Rich amber color, average carbonation, moderate head, light-to-medium body, starts almost like a plain yellow lager but then a tart, sharp cherry flavor slides in and takes over through the finish.

Minor Gripes: This is truly a beer inspired by Europe -- you have to bring it back close to room temperature before the tart cherry emerges.  But if it warms up too much (and the carbonation dissipates), it can be like drinking straight cherry juice.

Bottom Line: A creative, flavorful, refreshing beer that may be just a little too tempermental for its own good.  I'm curious if there are any Japanese equivalents -- that would make for a nice contrast the next time I'm out for sushi.

Rating: 6.25 / 10

I plan to hide this particular St. Patrick's Day -- it's one of those "amateur" days and I have two Irish pubs in my neighborhood that will be overrun with the idiots.  Instead, I have a bottle of single malt Irish whiskey at home and I drank my fill of stout (both Guinness and Murphy's) last weekend, and songs like this for my stereo...

• The Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem - Mountain Dew (live!)

I grew up listening to the "Irish Hit Parade" on a Boston AM radio station most Saturday and Sunday afternoons, even though I'm third-generation (and therefore ineligible to claim citizenship). I have very little patience for the "irish tenors" slop, but I will gladly stomp my feet to something like this.  If you can't smile after hearing a classic folk tune reconstructed this way, you clearly need to join the heathens in the pubs this Saturday.  Slainte!

This beer is exactly what I want in a bitter -- smooth, easy-drinking, something I can enjoy all evening long.  Thanks to the over-eager guests at a friend's Super Bowl party, I recently came into possession of a full case of this lovely brew.

Characteristics: Warm amber-red and slightly cloudy, medium body with light carbonation, contrasting citrus and caramel flavors that do a little pas-de-deux across the tongue before the caramel wins out on the way down the hatch.

Minor Gripes: 1. I've run into a couple bottles that were over-carbonated (perhaps skunking out).  2. The caramel finish can sometimes be a little cloying -- but that goes away if you pour another glass and start the citrus all over again.

Bottom Line: An excellent beer that compares very favorably to what I understand a proper English ESB should be (as opposed to some over-hopped American expression like Redhook's signature brew). I'm now two-for-two with River Horse, and looking forward to their next non-yellow release.

Rating: 7 / 10

No, I didn't give up beer for Lent... it's just taking a while to finish off the case of River Horse ESB (to be reviewed shortly) that I received after a friend's Super Bowl party.

In other news, however, I've been lucky enough to be selected as a judge to help pick the 100 greatest drinking songs of all time, a project originating with the kind proprietor of Big Rock Candy Mountain.  The list is fairly heavy on country material (as one would expect), but here are a few of my personal favorites for consideration.

• Scrawl -- Green Beer (from "He's Drunk," Rough Trade US, 1988)
  
• Scrawl -- Rot (from "Smallmouth," Rough Trade US, 1989)
  
• Scrawl -- Rocky Top (from "He's Drunk")

Scrawl was a fantastic country-tinged rock band from Columbus, Ohio who had one of the worst runs of record-label-luck imaginable.  These three songs are from their second and third LPs and run the gamut from a song about keggers to a breakup song that ends in drinking to something one might expect to hear at the end of a homesick drunken evening.  It's worth tracking down just about anything they recorded.

• Polkacide -- Who Stole The Keeshka? (from "Polkacide," Subterranean, 1986)
• Polkacide -- In Heaven There Is No Beer (from "Polkacide")

Polka is happiness.  Polka is barroom and dancehall music.  Polka is drinking music.  I could have added the punk/polka version of "Roll Out The Barrel," but I prefer "Keeshka" -- and "In Heaven..." is just too surreal to leave behind.  Polkacide recorded this first album in 1986 in San Francisco and still plays from time to time today, including a gig last Saturday in Oakland.

And from previous posts in the Deadly Tango / Malt & Barley axis:

• Crawling Chaos -- Guinness (from "The Gas Chair," Factory Benelux, 1981)
  
• The Cannanes -- Take Me To The Hotel, Johanna (And Let's Trash The Joint) (from "A Love Affair with Nature," Feel Good All Over, 1990)

I'll be sure to file another report once the judging is in full swing...