October 2007 Archives

The label features two things: a white retriever in a red wool fisherman's cap (think Jacques Cousteau), and the note "With Natural Hazelnut Flavor Added."  I noticed the first but not the second in the store... and when I got home, I started thinking about what kind of damage Torani syrup might do to a beer.

Characteristics: Reddish-brown color; nearly opaque, light-to-medium body; light carbonation with some head on initial pour (into stout glass); overall wet taste and feel with a slightly roasty start and a sugary, malty finish.

Minor Gripes: The hazelnut is imperceptible (e.g. compared to the broader nutty flavor of a Bass Ale) until the beer approaches room temperature.  Similarly, the flavor (when chilled) isn't strong enough to overpower even mild Mexican food.

Bottom Line: I realize that some beers need to be served warmer, but the thin body means that the flavors open up briefly and then go bad.  Most of us don't have beer cellars where we can maintain optimal conditions for a beer that's this finicky.

Rating: 4.75 / 10

Everything that was disappointing about the Trinity Red is corrected here in the Gila Monster Amber. Another of my recent Trader Joe's finds, this beer brings a creative edge to the classic red/amber style.

Characteristics: Warm reddish gold color, thin body, medium carbonation, malty start and middle with spicy cinnamon notes and a slightly hoppy finish.

Minor Gripes: A cloying, sugary finish (like Belgian ales) starts to emerge as the beer warms to the upper limits of its range.

Bottom Line: The spicy cinnamon notes and sharp carbonated feel help this beer stand up to foods that would crush a lesser beer, but it's thin enough that you can drink more than one in a sitting. For a bargain "micro," that's high praise.

Rating: 6.25 / 10

Another beer available only at Trader Joe's in my experience, and perhaps one best left there. Given a choice between this beer and a true pilsener, I'd go yellow (which is a rarity for me).

Characteristics: Warm amber red color, light carbonation, minimal head, light-to-medium body, slightly sharp opening moves into slightly malty, slightly yeasty spaces with a tangy finish.

Minor Gripes: There's a sour finish in the yeast -- an off-note that doesn't fit with the overall middle-of-the-palate approach.

Bottom Line: Drinkable, decent, but nothing special. I probably couldn't distinguish Trinity Red from Leinie's Red in a blind test, and that means it's definitely in the middle of the road at best.

Rating: 4.5 / 10