Coney Island Albino Python -- Shmaltz Brewing Company (Saratoga Springs, NY)

My new resolution: "big bottles + wine stopper = good value" -- at least here in NYC, where there's a fierce beer tax, especially on six-packs. If this resolution doesn't work out, these Chronicles may move on to distilled malted barley beverages -- prices on that side of the shop are comparable to what I found in DC. Anyway, today we take a trip back to the heyday of carnival sideshows and exotic-feeling experiences.

Characteristics: Cloudy gold color, average carbonation and head, medium to heavy body, sharp citrus notes (accentuated by the carbonation) that give way to a round, malty, spicy middle (reminiscent of christmas ales) before powering back as the aftertaste.

Minor Gripes: The citrus and malt aren't really playing nicely together, instead fighting for prominence. A little more nutmeg or coriander, or a different hop selection, might have balanced out the flavors.

Bottom Line: If your taste in Belgian whites runs toward first-generation Celis White or Hoegaarden, then Albino Python is definitely worth checking out. For those on the fence about whites (or who see Blue Moon as a pinnacle of this style's evolution), this beer isn't going to work.

Rating: 5 / 10