August 2009 Archives

I was equally scared and intrigued when I saw this sixpack in the cooler. I'm no fan of Abita's "Purple Haze" but their fine Turbodog and Restoration Ale gave me hope that the strawberries would be kept in check.

Characteristics: Clear yellow gold color; high carbonation; light-to-medium body; opens and finishes with some strawberry and yeast flavors, with a mellow slightly malty middle and few discernible hops. The strawberry is "real," not sugar-coated, and adds a definite tang.

Minor Gripes: There's less going on here than the flavors would suggest. The tangy finish turns dry over time, leaving one to wonder whether a beverage was actually consumed.

Bottom Line: The strawberry is a novel (and novelty) addition to what would otherwise be a decent lager falling between pilsner and amber. That novelty softens the pilsner's crisp bite without adding the malty depth of the amber -- truly betwixt and between. I wouldn't turn one down if offered, but I wouldn't exactly seek it out, either.

Rating: 5 / 10

A few weeks back, I was doing a little people-watching at the Oyster Bar on a Friday early evening.  I can't think of many places in NYC that got a bigger boost from the series "Mad Men." And along with a gorgeous plate of fried oysters, I had the chance to sample a couple pints of this lovely brew that adds some rye to the barley malt.

Characteristics: Cloudy amber color; medium body; low carbonation; starts with a sharp hoppy note, mellows into a biscuity, yeasty middle and finishes slightly sweet.

Minor Gripes: Balance is a problem. The hops keeps the sweetness in check only sometimes, but the biscuity elements can be overpowered by either of the two.

Bottom Line: With bivalves, Righteous Rye is magical. The hoppy opening cuts through the brine, while the malty rye draws out the depth of the bellies. In a stand-alone setting, the lack of balance and consistency is a bit of a liability. A complex beer worth checking out for amber ale fans.

Rating: 5.5 / 10

Second of the Green's family of gluten-free Belgian ales, as I review from light to dark. The Discovery Amber Ale successfully evokes Irish and English ambers and pale ales through its mix of unconventional grains.

Characteristics: Reddish brown and cloudy color (from secondary fermentation in bottle); high carbonation; medium body; tangy and tart flavors (almost granny smith apple) throughout dominate over some classic amber malt notes, leading to a hoppy finish.

Minor Gripes: The tangy nature of the sorghum and millet can be distracting at times, particularly for those who don't routinely drink GF beer. The 6% ABV does show up in the tartness and is not always welcome.

Bottom Line: Discovery Amber is at the strong end of the amber family in all respects. The flavors run fairly close to its stablemate, the Dubbel Dark Endeavor. But for those who can no longer enjoy ambers, lighter browns, or Belgian-style ales, this member of the Green's family is a welcome find.

Rating: 5.25 / 10

This beer first caught my attention as a new offering from Magic Hat. It's kept my attention thanks to some quirky elements -- sugar beet extract! -- and to the quality refreshment it provides. And compared with other Magic Hat summer-ish efforts, Wacko is a clear winner.

Characteristics: Deep pink color (like golden cranberries); high carbonation; minimal head; light body; opens slightly sharp and hoppy, with a sugary (but not syrupy) malt middle and slightly dry fruity finish.

Minor Gripes: This is perhaps too thin a beer, with the carbonation hanging on all the way to the very bottom of the glass like a seltzer.

Bottom Line: Wacko is a well-balanced summer beer, just right for humid, nasty evenings on a stoop or back porch hoping for a breeze. The sugar beet element is amusing, while the flavor flows smoothly from crisp to clean. Color me impressed (yes, pun somewhat intended).

Rating: 6.25 / 10

Finally, an American Pale Ale that doesn't slaughter my taste buds by being overhopped. Though maybe the black pepper is also providing the necessary balance... however it works, color me impressed.

Characteristics: warm, cloudy amber color; medium carbonation, medium body; opens with a hoppy edge (assisted by carbonation), mellows in the middle with a little malt (wandering between biscuit and caramel), and winds up in a long and strong black pepper finish.

Minor Gripes: As with many complex beers, there's a delicate spot where all the flavors open up... and it passes quickly.

Bottom Line: My preference for malt over hops is well-documented on these pages. But Knot Stock is the rare American Pale Ale that I would enjoy as a regular part of the rotation.

Rating: 6.25 / 10

I thought I'd reviewed this one ages ago, but the site doesn't show any entry. Pennant Ale '55 is a tribute to the old Brooklyn Dodgers and their first (and only) World Series triumph, and a perfectly reasonable entry in the Brooklyn Brewery stable.

Characteristics: Translucent copper-amber color, thin body, mild-to-average carbonation, some hoppiness in the opening (along with the carbonation) that gives way to a yeasty, biscuity malt middle and slightly sweet finish, especially when allowed to warm slightly from standard refrigerated storage.

Minor Gripes: Pennant Ale '55 has a tendency to get a little bitter in the middle and finish, as if it's pretending to be an American Pale Ale instead of a more rounded amber.

Bottom Line: Like a reliable fourth starter in a pitching rotation, it doesn't have a knockout quality but it keeps the team in the game. Nothing special, nothing terrible -- just a nice middle-of-the-road amber.

Rating: 5.25 / 10

Oh my goodness. This is one special beer -- take whatever you know about apple cider and toss it in the trash bin. Honestly, it's akin to a drinkable apple pie filling. I've even had dreams about trying this beverage as the base for a vanilla (or dulce de leche) ice cream float.

Characteristics: Gold-straw cloudy color; light-to-medium carbonation; thin body; consistent mix of apple and cinnamon and nutmeg with the spices lingering in the finish.

Minor Gripes: it's a little thin, even watery at times (though that could also be the tap from which I was served). And at 3.1% ABV, this Apple Wit could stand a little more alcohol to add some heft.

Bottom Line: The wheat/wit base provides some depth that's missing from the standard apple ciders (Strongbow, Magners/Bulmers, Woodpecker, Woodchuck). If you like the idea of a lambic, hate Lindemann's, and are burdened with wheat/gluten allergies, then this is an excellent choice.

Rating: 6.75 / 10