Black Bavarian Lager -- Sprecher Brewery (Glendale, WI)

Lakefront seems to get the majority of the press (and love) when it comes to Milwaukee-area craft beers. Sprecher is rightfully known for its sodas, especially its root beer and the most biting (and tasty) ginger ale I've ever had. But Sprecher also makes some fine, complex beers, with its Black Bavarian at the head of the class.

Characteristics: Dark black-brown color that is completely opaque; heavy body with low to medium carbonation; opens smooth with a slight bubbly bite before moving into dense roasted chocolate malts with an espresso finish. There's also a hit-and-miss sugar element through the middle.

Minor Gripes: Black Bavarian doesn't have enough balance once it warms up a little -- I'm guessing it was engineered to be rich and flavorful when consumed ice-cold. And the 6% ABV sneaks up a little.

Bottom Line: Although Black Bavarian is a lager, it's closest in spirit and flavor to a deep porter as opposed to a schwarzbier. It's not a session beer, but it's a good change of pace and one that's not often available where I live these days.

Rating: 6 / 10