October 2009 Archives

Another sampling from the elusive St. Peter's Brewery. The Cream Stout comes in a round (not elliptical) greenish glass bottle that doesn't stand out like the English Ale but still commands attention in the grocery or liquor store. Fans of oatmeal stouts should pay close attention, even though this is a thick cream stout.

Characteristics: Deep black-brown, nearly opaque color; medium carbonation; minimal head; heavy body; smooth opening has smoky notes that go malty sweet in middle and finishes with that dry Fuggles hop tang and some coffee overtones.

Minor Gripes: This is the rare specialty beer that is better on the colder end of the spectrum between "fridge" and "room temp." Since this really is a beet to savor, and I don't have a wine bucket, the fragility is tricky.

Bottom Line: I'm torn about St. Peter's Cream Stout. The initial "molten ice cream" experience quickly dissipates into an unbalanced mix. If you keep it cool, it's a richly rewarding stout.

Rating: 6 / 10 at the right temp, 4.5 / 10 when it gets too warm.

I was fortunate enough to visit Shipyard a couple summers back -- good people with the goal of making good beers and an obsession with Fuggles hops. Their flagship brew is a good one, but the flavored offerings don't always make the grade.

Characteristics: Warm-gold color; light body with light-to-medium carbonation; a consistent straw-grass flavor dominates throughout, with some yeast and a slight squashy taste at the finish.

Not-so-minor Gripes: Pumpkinhead is extremely thin and carries zero flavor when cold -- it starts out somewhere around a light American lager. It opens up a little over time, but there's ultimately not much to find. The progression or evolution in the flavor is very slight over the course of a swallow or a full glass.

Bottom Line: I prefer my pumpkin beers to be a little heftier, with cinnamon and nutmeg hints (though not as thick as a winter ale). Pumpkinhead is too thin, like a Pale Ale that trades out some hops and adds some raw pumpkin to the mash tun. It's better than the Shipyard Blueberry (which was too sweet for me) but not the pumpkin brew I'd recommend.

Rating: 4 / 10