Characteristics: Cloudy reddish-brown color; light-to-moderate carbonation with average head; medium body; mildly sweet opening sets the stage for the ginger to build across a yeasty-biscuit middle for an almost peppery finish. It takes time for the ginger to emerge.

Minor Gripes: Depending on your tolerance for yeast, be careful when pouring since there's a sediment in the bottle. And definitely do not drink this one straight out of the bottle, straight out of the refrigerator... this is probably best consumed from a snifter/tulip glass, approaching room temperature.

Bottom Line: A noble experiment that doesn't quite reach the finish line. I'd like to try this with 50% more ginger in the mash, so that the bite is there at a cooler temperature -- but I also eat pickled ginger without sushi.  And I do wonder about quality control in the bottling and labeling at Kiuchi -- the first bottle I tasted was so bland that I may not have gotten the right beverage. (That's happened to me before with Hitachino Nest. I loved the first couple Red Rice Ales I tried -- reddish, medium-bodied experiments on the amber ale theme... but later bottles were thin, cloudy, straw-yellow, and utterly lacking in flavor.)

Rating: 5 / 10

Characteristics: Brownish-red color; medium carbonation and head that dissipates fairly quickly; light-to-medium body; consistent flavors of biscuit, malt, yeast, and a little sugar throughout with a little hoppy bite in the finish.

Minor Gripes: Lagers are steady but unexciting (unless hopped within an inch of their lives). In particular, the black lagers follow enough of a formula that distinguishing among them is a challenge.

Bottom Line: Schwarzbiers are a saving grace for those who generally shun yellow lagers and pilseners but find themselves in Germany. Though Kostritzer is my standard reference point, I would certainly choose Eibauer without hesitation.

Rating: 6 / 10 ]]> http://www.maltandbarley.com/2010/05/eibauer-schwarzbier-eibau.html http://www.maltandbarley.com/2010/05/eibauer-schwarzbier-eibau.html Lager black Eibau Eibauer Germany lager schwarzbier Tue, 04 May 2010 22:18:28 -0500 a handy guide to beer.

(Proper reviews will resume soon, including my Oct. 2009 tasting sessions in Portland, OR and the winter 2010 business trip to Berlin.)
]]> http://www.maltandbarley.com/2010/04/20-things-oatmeal.html http://www.maltandbarley.com/2010/04/20-things-oatmeal.html Administrivia Ale Beer Comics Oatmeal Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:16:49 -0500 One of my few regrets about living in New York City is the relative scarcity of certain breweries... and New Belgium is prominent on that list.  Fat Tire is their best known brew, and 1554 Black Ale is my favorite of their everyday listings.  But they've recently launched the "Lips of Faith" series of 22 ounce concoctions that are serious, special beers. And on my maiden voyage to the storied BevMo, I decided to grab two different bottles and then retire to my hotel room for a quiet evening of tasting.

Characteristics: Brown and slightly cloudy with red highlights; light-to-medium body and carbonation; intense sourness from start to finish, in the crab-apple and balsamic vinegar categories, with minimal discernable hops or malt traits.

Minor Gripes: The 22-ounce bottle doesn't always lend itself to a careful pour -- so the yeast that settled in the bottom of the bottle can come rushing out at the end. And there doesn't seem to be any reason for a 6% ABV.

Bottom Line: Sadly, I feel defeated by this beer. I've enjoyed Flanders Sour Ales before, but La Folie seems to ask (and answer) the question of whether it's possible to be too sour. Maybe they could have skipped that last year of fermentation...

Rating: 4.75 / 10

Characteristics: Brownish-black, opaque color; almost no head or carbonation; exceptionally thick body; flavors that range from vanilla to the best burnt caramel ever to a more pedestrian creme brulee to slightly-burnt toast to charcoal-filtered alcohol. (Did you get the idea that there's a major charred element to this one?)

Minor Gripes: I was disappointed at the utter lack of carbonation in my two bottle. Some head, some bubbles would have helped lighten up the body and mouth-feel.  A champagne-style bottle with a cork would be far more appropriate, especially since Goose Island claims this one can be aged for up to five years. And I'm not sure that this needs to be a 13% ABV.

Bottom Line: The Bourbon County Stout is not for everyone... imagine that a boilermaker were a shot of Beam dumped into a flat, fully-settled Guinness. But if you like rich, complex, hearty beverages, this one is well worth your time (and the cost -- $7-ish for a 12-ounce bottle).

Rating: 6 / 10

Characteristics: Dark blackish-brown color, nearly opaque; low carbonation and minimal head; thick body that's almost syrupy at times; fairly consistent mix of coffee and chocolate malt flavors, with coffee and slight hoppiness coming out in the finish and vanilla emerging as the beer warms up.

Minor Gripes: None. Amazingly, the beer is consistent across all temperatures.

Bottom Line: This beer is awfully close to the platonic ideal of a coffee stout/porter(*). If you like your iced coffee to be black and thick, this could be your next favorite beer.

Rating: 8 / 10

Characteristics: Cloudy copper color, medium carbonation and head, medium-to-heavy body, grapefruit flavors (but not Cascade hops!) dominate over a sweet, slightly malty middle section before transmogrifying into an American Pale Ale (a/k/a hop-infested) finish.

Minor Gripes: For the weight of this beer, grapefruit isn't necessarily the balancing note I would have chosen. Tough to pair with anything but a lighter weight American Pale Ale. Also hints at a high ABV content that couldn't be confirmed or denied from the tap handle.

Bottom Line: Certainly a creative beer, but not always successful. Grapefruit burps and that late hoppy shift are not welcome. Worth sampling, though, especially if you're looking for a heavyweight counterpart to all those brews trying to outperform Sierra Nevada.

Rating: 4.5 / 10 (before any bonus points for creativity and local focus)

Characteristics: Deep black-brown, nearly opaque color; medium carbonation; minimal head; heavy body; smooth opening has smoky notes that go malty sweet in middle and finishes with that dry Fuggles hop tang and some coffee overtones.

Minor Gripes: This is the rare specialty beer that is better on the colder end of the spectrum between "fridge" and "room temp." Since this really is a beet to savor, and I don't have a wine bucket, the fragility is tricky.

Bottom Line: I'm torn about St. Peter's Cream Stout. The initial "molten ice cream" experience quickly dissipates into an unbalanced mix. If you keep it cool, it's a richly rewarding stout.

Rating: 6 / 10 at the right temp, 4.5 / 10 when it gets too warm.

Characteristics: Warm-gold color; light body with light-to-medium carbonation; a consistent straw-grass flavor dominates throughout, with some yeast and a slight squashy taste at the finish.

Not-so-minor Gripes: Pumpkinhead is extremely thin and carries zero flavor when cold -- it starts out somewhere around a light American lager. It opens up a little over time, but there's ultimately not much to find. The progression or evolution in the flavor is very slight over the course of a swallow or a full glass.

Bottom Line: I prefer my pumpkin beers to be a little heftier, with cinnamon and nutmeg hints (though not as thick as a winter ale). Pumpkinhead is too thin, like a Pale Ale that trades out some hops and adds some raw pumpkin to the mash tun. It's better than the Shipyard Blueberry (which was too sweet for me) but not the pumpkin brew I'd recommend.

Rating: 4 / 10

Characteristics: Dark black-brown color that is completely opaque; heavy body with low to medium carbonation; opens smooth with a slight bubbly bite before moving into dense roasted chocolate malts with an espresso finish. There's also a hit-and-miss sugar element through the middle.

Minor Gripes: Black Bavarian doesn't have enough balance once it warms up a little -- I'm guessing it was engineered to be rich and flavorful when consumed ice-cold. And the 6% ABV sneaks up a little.

Bottom Line: Although Black Bavarian is a lager, it's closest in spirit and flavor to a deep porter as opposed to a schwarzbier. It's not a session beer, but it's a good change of pace and one that's not often available where I live these days.

Rating: 6 / 10

• Sierra Nevada takes the green initiative to create ethanol from brewing waste materials and install electric car chargers at employee parking lots.
• Discovery Network's "Planet Green" offers tips on how to drink green, though in an annoying multi-page format.
• Even the Dear Leader has entered the beer exporting game -- though I won't be seeking out Taedonggang any time soon.
• Killing two birds with one stone -- go green and protect yourself (and others) by walking to the pub.
• And when you get to the pub, your "pint" glass should be a proper pint, not some thick-bottomed rip-off.
• Appalachia moves on from backwoods distilling to microbrewing -- a handy guide for my end-of-year road trip!
• No green conversation is complete without some preaching to the choir about localism.
• And finally, for this back-to-school season, a two-part round-up of "college town breweries" with high-quality green(ish) brews, including many past favorites here at the Chronicles.