Malt & Barley Chronicles

Original Sin Hard Cider -- Original Sin Corp. (New York, NY / Middlebury, VT)

Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:29:12 -0500

My wife first heard about this beverage earlier in the year and led us on a tangled search through bars and package stores to chase it down when we lived in Washington. Now that we're in New York, the search is far less arduous, but the cider is no less refreshing and no less crisp.

Characteristics: Pale, pale yellow color, light body, even lighter carbonation, and a continuously tart, smooth apple flavor from start to finish.

Minor Gripes: This is a heavier hitter -- the 6% ABV is hardly noticeable on the way down, which can be a scary thing. Also, I'm not big on sulfites, even though I understand the interest in keeping it fresh a little longer (and hops aren't available as a natural preservative).

Bottom Line: Original Sin is like drinking a Granny Smith apple. It's among the better domestic ciders, though you may want to watch the sulfites and sugar content depending on your propensity for hangovers. For those reasons, I can't drink more than one in an evening, and it can't be the last beverage of the night.

Rating: 5.75 / 10 (after being docked 1/2 point for the ill effects).

Oak Aged Beer -- Innis & Gunn (Edinburgh, Scotland)

Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:59:41 -0500

The Scots have done it again. I've already talked about how much I love scotch ale, particularly McEwan's. I have not reviewed the Kelpie seaweed ale because I had it only once... but it was fantastic. And now there's the happy accident of a beer aged in bourbon oak casks... amen.

Characteristics: Clear orange-gold color, medium carbonation, light-to-medium body, and a slightly nutty clean taste (reminiscent of Bass Ale) punctuated by the bubbles and then mellowing out through vanilla flavors to a bourbon-tinged finish.

Minor Gripes: The aftertaste can run a bit sweet -- when I burped, it smelled like a Beam & Coke. And it's deceptively strong, at 6.6% ABV (compared with the standard 5% ABV).

Bottom Line: This is best seen as a sipping beer, and a fantastic brew for a lazy evening near a fireplace. I'm not a big fan of bourbon, but I can certainly endorse this use of bourbon casks.

Rating: 8 / 10

Coney Island Albino Python -- Shmaltz Brewing Company (Saratoga Springs, NY)

Wed, 06 Aug 2008 21:07:57 -0500

My new resolution: "big bottles + wine stopper = good value" -- at least here in NYC, where there's a fierce beer tax, especially on six-packs. If this resolution doesn't work out, these Chronicles may move on to distilled malted barley beverages -- prices on that side of the shop are comparable to what I found in DC. Anyway, today we take a trip back to the heyday of carnival sideshows and exotic-feeling experiences.

Characteristics: Cloudy gold color, average carbonation and head, medium to heavy body, sharp citrus notes (accentuated by the carbonation) that give way to a round, malty, spicy middle (reminiscent of christmas ales) before powering back as the aftertaste.

Minor Gripes: The citrus and malt aren't really playing nicely together, instead fighting for prominence. A little more nutmeg or coriander, or a different hop selection, might have balanced out the flavors.

Bottom Line: If your taste in Belgian whites runs toward first-generation Celis White or Hoegaarden, then Albino Python is definitely worth checking out. For those on the fence about whites (or who see Blue Moon as a pinnacle of this style's evolution), this beer isn't going to work.

Rating: 5 / 10

Cleaning the Draught Lines #3

Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:40:34 -0500

Proving I'm not always behind the times:

Behold the iBeer, a paid version of the Carling-branded iPint (a free promotional download from the iTunes store, which makes for painful link experiences) (HT: BoingBoing Gadgets).

And reverting to my usual lack of timeliness:

Happy belated birthday to the Reinheitsgebot. May you remind us of the principles of quality brewing for another 400+ years.
Two items combining two of my recurring interests, trademarks and beer:
- The backstory on Collaboration Not Litigation Ale.
- reflections on the Ballantine's logo (read through the comments!).
Two suggestion tools, courtesy of LifeHacker:
- Beer Suggest for days when you aren't reading the M&B Chronicles.
- Beer Menus, to find a favorite brew in NYC.
Glassware follies:
- HIK! Glasses made from recycled beer bottles (HT: Treehugger).
- certified imperial pint glasses (HT: BoingBoing Gadgets).
Entertaining entries on beverages from sites not necessarily known for that angle:
- Salon.com founder Scott Rosenberg
- English digital radio maven James Cridland
And wandering into the world of malted barley without hops, a not-so-existential discussion on whether Scotch is still Scotch when bottled outside Scotland (HT: IPKat).

Finally, from the enviro-front, a/k/a Treehugger:

As previously noted here, the prices of raw materials are apparently climbing due to global warming, causing upheavals among many brewers...
and to ease your enviro-guilt, try a 100% Carbon-Offset beer (at least until it's shipped to your continent of choice from Australia...).

Toasted Lager -- Blue Point Brewing Company (Patchogue, NY / Rochester, NY)

Mon, 21 Jul 2008 21:35:15 -0500

My first review of a "local" beer since getting to NYC, where the insane tax rate means that decent six packs (even on sale) start close to $10. I'm starting to think that it's better to buy the big (22-24 oz) bottles (and a wine bottle stopper) than to persist with the six pack. But that's not a reflection on this particular brew, which presents different concerns.

Characteristics: Golden-reddish color, medium-to-high carbonation, light body, with strong citrus hops running roughshod over the toasted malt opening and then lingering on the tongue.

Minor Gripes: I'm simply not a fan of overblown hops, especially of the citrus variety. This beer is dominated by its hops, though not as much as a comparable American pale ale.

Bottom Line: I wanted to like this beer. It originates from a nice low-key town on Long Island, and the name "toasted lager" is appealing. But the citrus finish just doesn't match the malty intentions of the name and coloring. A softer hop profile would allow the "toasted" flavor (and not just the color) come out.

Rating: 5 / 10

Summer Beer -- Harpoon Brewery (Boston, MA / Windsor, VT)

Tue, 17 Jun 2008 23:03:07 -0500

I've made my way to a new city, but the same cruddy summer weather followed me here a couple weeks back. And that means it's time for crisp beers that are best consumed cold and quickly. Harpoon's not-so-imaginatively-named "Summer Beer" is its adaptation of the kolsch style most often associated with Cologne/Koln, Germany.

Characteristics: Light golden yellow color, slightly above-average carbonation, thin body, and a flavor that starts with sharp, dry hops (accentuated by the carbonation) and trails off to a slightly malty sweetness. Easily among the lightest ales I've ever sampled.

Minor Gripes: The variability in the flavor can be somewhat frustrating, especially when the hops and malt get out of synch. And like any kolsch, this beer is too thin for any part of the year other than muggy summer afternoons and evenings. And now that the weather has broken in NYC (evenings in the low 60s!), this beer is suddenly out of season (at least for another week).

Bottom Line: When it gets muggy and nasty and you can't walk three steps without breaking a sweat, Harpoon Summer Beer is an excellent option.

Rating: 6 / 10

Consecrator Doppelbock -- Bell's (Comstock, MI)

Sun, 04 May 2008 14:57:41 -0500

Wow. A domestic doppel that has definitely earned the storied "-ator" appellation. I'm generally a fan of the Bell's brews, but this one is a knockout even by their standards. And they earn some brownie points for the clean packaging -- white label with copper and brown print featuring two mirrored goat heads.

Characteristics: Reddish-brown color, light-to-medium carbonation, light body, toasted biscuit malt and yeast flavors that are moderated by a mid-level yeastiness and a little alcohol kick.

Minor Gripes: If you keep it too long, chill it too much, or let it approach room temperature, the alcohol dominates the other flavors... and at a typical 7% ABV, that dominance may not be welcome.

Bottom Line: A splendid addition to the doppelbock tradition. Keep this one in mind when the weather cools off again (doppelbocks are hard to handle in the summer).

Rating: 7.25 / 10

Double White Ale -- Southampton Ales & Lagers (Southampton / Saratoga Springs, NY)

Mon, 28 Apr 2008 22:31:02 -0500

I'd heard about Southampton's brews for some time, mostly from the period "Beers of the Times" feature in the New York Times. As a fitting preparation for my upcoming move to NYC, I recently managed to score a six-pack of the Double White Ale.

Characteristics: Pale cloudy yellow (when poured properly), full head that dissipates promptly into medium carbonation, medium to heavy body, with a mild yeasty flavor tempered by spices and hops and an orangey tail.

Minor Gripes: There's no warning that you need to swirl the end of the bottle when pouring (or that you should never drink straight from the bottle). Without the settled spices and yeast, the beer is thin and overly hoppy and dominated by alcohol. And when poured right, you'll never know that

Bottom Line: For those who like the Belgian-style witbiers, the Double White is a tasty addition to the tradition. It's certainly heavier than the old-school Celis / current Hoegaarden versions, but no less tasty.

Rating: 6 / 10

Korbinian Doppelbock -- Brauerei Weihenstephan (Freising, Germany)

Sat, 29 Mar 2008 23:20:44 -0500

It's a week after Easter and therefore close to the end of the classical season for doppelbocks (but just about the peak for me locally). I was a little surprised that Weihenstephan doesn't have a classic "-ator" name for its variation (cf. Paulaner Salvator, Ayinger Celebrator, Spaten Optimator), but the beer itself certainly holds its own within the doppelbock category.

Characteristics: Rich brown color with reddish highlights, medium body, light-to-medium carbonation and a minimal head, slightly smoky opening with a round, sweet malty middle and a slightly spicy hop element that grows through the finish.

Minor Gripes: If it gets too close to room temperature, the sugar and alcohol flavors overwhelm the subtle mix of spicy hops and round malts. Otherwise, the 7.4% ABV is hardly noticeable.

Bottom Line: None of the doppelbocks are session beers, with the possible exception of Moretti La Rossa. Knowing that, spend a nice evening by the fireplace curled up with an oversized bottle of Korbinian (truly a "dunkles starkbier" -- "dark strong beer") and enjoy.

Rating: 6.75 / 10

Kells Irish Style Lager -- Rogue Brewing (Newport, OR)

Sat, 15 Mar 2008 22:55:18 -0500

I rarely go for the "topical" or "timely" brew, but tonight this lovely large (22 ounce) bottle just called out to me from the cooler in my favorite local shop... and I am a better person for heeding that call.

Characteristics: Cloudy yellow gold color, light body with medium carbonation that dissipates quickly, crisp opening from the carbonation that yields to mellow, clean malty middle and a crisp, almost crabapple finish.

Minor Gripes: There are many evenings when one may not be interested in drinking 22 ounces, and Rogue's bottles do not feature resealable tops. Distribute this one in a Grolsch-style bottle with the rubber seal top (or a traditional 12-ounce six pack), and you've got a real winner.

Bottom Line: Nice combination of crisp opening and closing tastes surrounding a warm malty middle. I can't say that Kells strikes me as particularly "irish," but it's certainly a welcome diversion from the creamy stouts and red ales that dominate the Irish-American landscape (since there hasn't been enough demand to bring Kilkenny Cream Ale to the US).

Rating: 7 / 10

P.S. For those who feel compelled to participate in amateur hour this coming Monday, please show a little moderation... for those around you if not for your own sake. Thanks.

Shoals Pale Ale / IPA -- Smuttynose Brewing (Portsmouth, NH)

Tue, 11 Mar 2008 22:28:03 -0500

Two separate beers, but so close in overall impressions that I'm going to lump them into a single review. And as much as I like Smuttynose's other brews, I am not particularly excited by these beers. In other words, I need to stick to mostly malty beers.

Characteristics: Shoals has a rich reddish gold color, light-to-medium carbonation and body, and a taste that starts with an oyster cracker or stale biscuit taste that is quickly dominated by citrusy hops through the aftertaste. The IPA is yellow-gold and lighter-bodied, starting with a sharp carbonated moment but mellowing out into a flat bitterness.

Minor Gripes: The Shoals is almost like drinking a raw Arnie Palmer (lemon juice and unsweetened tea), while the IPA needs a little more malt for balance.

Bottom Line: When it's all about the hops, I just lose interest... and that's exactly what these two beers present -- two different, but equally dominant, hop experiences.

Rating: Shoals -- 4.5 / 10; IPA -- 5 / 10

Cleaning The Draught Lines #2

Sat, 08 Mar 2008 23:14:00 -0500

Catching up with old favorites:

Spring is on its way, a little earlier than necessary, but not completely unwelcome. And its arrival means cherry blossom hysteria here in Washington, DC ... and the return of Smuttynose's Hanami Ale. I picked up a few bottles in a sampler pack for a Super Bowl party and was surprised at how much they've turned up the tart cherry aspects of the beer this year (i.e. while the beer is still chilled). Last year it seemed like they were angling for the essence of cherry blossoms until it warmed up significantly. This year's Hanami is giving the kriekbiers a run for their money but doesn't cross into that "cherry juice" zone... add half a point to the previous rating if you find a six-pack this year.

Legal:

The Anheuser Busch / Budejovicky Budvar battle (previously 1 and 2) turns another page, this time surrounding a strange twist in UK trademark law that allows A-B to the exclusive rights to the name going forward... and in honor of this convoluted turn in the proceedings, the IPKat hosted two competitions to explain the proceedings -- one to summarize the case in under 150 words, the other for haiku about the continuing controversies.

The big trademark trend these days in the European Union seems to be the "designation of origin" or "geographic indication" filing. The latest uproar involves the designation BAYERISCHES BIER and its conflict with BAVARIA HOLLAND Beer (courtesy of Class 46 and the IPKat). Interestingly, Bavaria Brewery was also responsible for the lederhosen / ambush advertising incident at the 2006 World Cup -- picking a fight with Anheuser Busch (the exclusive beer sponsor of the World Cup) during the Netherlands / Ivory Coast match in Stuttgart, in southern Germany... perhaps not the wisest business move in the world.

It's days and scenarios like these two that make me reconsider my decision to leave the wonderful world of trademark law...

Gadgetry:

InBev has teamed with Krups (shiny kitchenware folks) to bring the BeerTender, -- a mini-keg and counter-top dispenser systemm to the US market. I salute the idea of enjoying draft beer in the privacy of one's home, but I can't get on board with the execution... between the skunky export-grade Heineken, the proprietary, single-use mini-keg, and the overpriced distribution at Williams-Sonoma, this puppy seems doomed to me. (Courtesy of BoingBoing Gadgets, Engadget)

Murphy's Stout -- Murphy Brewery / InBev (Luton, England)

Sat, 16 Feb 2008 13:25:33 -0500

In my experience, Murphy's is the third-most popular of the major Irish stouts (after Guinness and Beamish) -- a little bit harder to find, but certainly worth the effort.

Characteristics: Rich blackish-brown (nearly opaque) color with the classic tan creamy head, nitrogen widget can pour that takes about a minute to settle to light carbonation, smooth toasted malt flavors with just enough hops (especially at the beginning of each sip, and then lingering at the back of the tongue) to keep the sweetness out.

Minor Gripes: Is it bad that this beer goes down so easy? It would be nice to find this on tap more often... instead, one Irish pub in my neighborhood has stopped offering Beamish on tap (presumably for lack of sales) and I've only seen Murphy's in a great bar / guest house in Milwaukee.

Bottom Line: Admittedly, I've never understood the fear that many people have of Irish stouts... I find them easy to drink, perhaps even on the lighter end of the spectrum (especially compared with beers like the chocolate porters). And overall I'd rather drink Murphy's than Guinness from the nitro-can.

Rating: 6.75 / 10

Blackened Voodoo Lager -- Dixie Brewery (New Orleans, LA / Monroe, WI)

Mon, 04 Feb 2008 21:21:13 -0500

I have always gone back and forth on Blackened Voodoo, as it seems to be rather sensitive to its environment (temperature, glassware, age, etc.) and there are few guarantees once you get the bottle in your hand. My most recent six-pack met that expectation, but generally came out to the positive side. And raise a glass to the Minhas Craft Brewing Co (f/k/a Huber Brewing Company) of Monroe, Wisconsin, which has stepped up with contract brewing facilities to help keep Dixie alive while the original New Orleans facilities are still out of commission.

Characteristics: Dark reddish-brown color, decent head (quickly receding), light body that allows for some translucency, medium carbonation that underscores an intriguing battle between dry hops and sweet malts that continues all the way down.

Minor Gripes: Similar to its new stablemate Huber Bock, Blackened Voodoo will change from bottle to bottle, glass to glass, and the "sweet spot" is notoriously hard to replicate.

Bottom Line: For those who like schwarzbiers and other dark lagers, Blackened Voodoo is worth checking out. Just treat it like an English ale (i.e. warm it up a little) to get the full flavor experience. Or seek out Köstritzer at a good German restaurant or rathskeller and enjoy a consistently strong beverage.

Rating: 6 / 10 on a good day, 4.5 / 10 on a bad one.

Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier -- Brauerei Heller (Bamberg, Germany)

Sun, 20 Jan 2008 16:57:00 -0500

I've tried reviewing this particular beer a few times now. It's pretty special (and rarely seen in the US) -- a "smoke beer" in the bock tradition from northern Bavaria.

Characteristics: Rich reddish-brown color, medium body, light to medium carbonation and head, with a dominant smoky flavor from start to finish over sugary malt and smooth hops that emerge in the finish. As the beer warms, the 6.5% ABV comes out and slowly overpowers the malts.

Minor Gripes: Thanks to the vagaries of importing and shelflife and the variability of bock brewing, I've experienced varying levels of smokiness over the 4-5 times I've tried this beer.

Bottom Line: Most bocks are not everyday beers, and Schlenkerla is no exception. It is certainly worthy of your time and attention, particularly if you like smoky and peaty beers and whiskeys. I'd love to hear a report from anyone who's made a trip to the source, since it's now on my list if I am fortunate enough to make a return trip to Germany.

Rating: 6.5 / 10