Winter Ale -- Blue Point Brewing Company (Patchogue, NY)

I'm always intrigued and frightened by winter ales. Intrigued by the idea of cinnamon and nutmeg and ginger and cloves, like a mulled wine or cider, but frightened by the attendant malt sugars that overwhelm the rest of the brew. Blue Point's entry for 2008-09 gets the job done by dialing back some of the spices and adding more hops to maintain balance.

Characteristics: Deep amber-brown color, low-to-medium carbonation, medium body, flat malty start that leads to a battle of citrusy hops and a mix of spices -- mostly coriander and nutmeg -- that continues through the finish and aftertaste.

Minor Gripes: I'd prefer for the spices to win a little more definitively. Fans of American Pale Ales, or those who dislike winter ales but are forced to consume this one, may hold different opinions.

Bottom Line: As winter ales go, Blue Point's is one of the most drinkable. I wouldn't buy it more than once a year, but that's typically enough for winter ale season (unlike pumpkin ales, which I would sample all year round).

Rating: 6 / 10