Old Speckled Hen -- Morland (Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, England)

I first tried this beer about five years ago in a bar in the East Village. When I found it in a bar in Milwaukee about 4 months later, it was among the worst experiences I'd ever had -- and I was sad. I've tried a few since, and nothing has matched that first taste, but the widget can is FAR superior to the bottles.

Characteristics: Nitro-pour resolves to a reddish-gold with creamy head, light to medium body, tangy and slightly toasted malty flavors with a little caramel in the mix.

Minor Gripes: Inconsistency in the import market... both in the freshness factor and the misguided idea that both bottles and widgeted cans should be sold over here. Guinness learned its lesson nearly 10 years ago (switching to all widgets) -- hopefully Morland can afford to do the same.

Bottom Line: In my recent tour of English widgeted cans, Old Speckled Hen slots in between Tetley's and Boddington's / Wexford -- it's a little creamy, more flavorful than the yellow ales, but lacking the bitterness of the Tetley's. When it's on, this is a fantastic beverage.

Rating: 6 / 10 (when fresh and widgeted; deduct 1 full point if missing either)